Chewing up some miles: dirt roads, getting lost and running out of fuel, doing a dirtbike tour, working in a mine for a day, buying dynamite and making some noise.
Fun week, and we are now at the salt flats.
Goneriden
30
24 May 2002 – 30 May 2002
Bolivia
La Paz - Sucre - Potosi - Uyuni
Trip distance26,463 kmWeek 30 of 32
The modern week-by-week edition
La Paz
to Uyuni.
This week’s route
La Paz - Sucre - Potosi - Uyuni
- 1La Paz
- 2Sucre
- 3Potosí
- 4Uyuni
Week 30 routeBoliviaRegional context
Approximate route using modern roads · OpenStreetMap contributors · route via OSRM
Week 30 in the full journey
See this week in the complete 32-week route.
The preserved 2002 maps provide full-trip context while the modern interactive journey map is developed.
Memorable moment
Memorable moment.
We left La Paz for what was always going to be a long day to Sucre, with thoughts of a beer in our hands by about 7pm.
The first section of paved road disappeared quickly behind us. With about 300kms to go, after eventually finding fuel in a reasonably sized town, we became aware that we would be pushing darkness. The road was now dirt, but there was plenty of opportunity for good speed. The place you start to lose time is when the major roads disappear into small towns and there is no logical route out of town; the more locals you ask, the more different answers you get.
It was one of these towns that really stuffed us. As we sat atop a hill, on a rocky, barely navigable 4WD track, and looked at the moon, we realised we were going in the wrong direction. Nearly 4000m up, in the Bolivian countryside, with Saturday evening ticking away, it still felt good to be here. After further consultation with map and compass, we got back on track.
Next problem: fuel. After asking some local kids at the next town, they ran alongside the bikes and directed us to a shed. While waiting for the owner, whom the kids fetched, they took the chance to practise some English from a school book one of them had. As the crowd gathered, we refuelled, posed for photos, declined accommodation and headed out of town.
Another two gruelling hours on sandy, windy roads, which would have been fun had we not been approaching 13 hours on the bike for the day, and we made it to Joyride Cafe in Sucre. We got our beer, not quite on schedule as it was now after midnight, but we got our beer. What a day, cheers.
Original Week 30 accountPictures of the week
Three moments from the road
Quote of the week“Now when I fall off I don't damage the windshield.” Erin from www.ultimatejourney.com.
Good to see we are not the only ones.
CompetitionStopping before running into the barely visible bungy cord stretched across the road at a toll booth. We both nearly found ourselves flung rapidly back to Sucre.
HighlightWalking into a small mining shop in Potosi and buying 8 sticks of dynamite, detonators and bags of ammonium nitrate (it makes the explosion bigger). All this for just US$15.
Risk activityPrior to the mine tour in Potosi, we were told we could buy gifts for the miners. We thought that 96% alcohol, coca leaves and dynamite made a good combination. They were very appreciative, but the taste of the alcohol mixed with only a bit of water wasn’t quite as pleasant for us as it appeared to be for them.
The risk here was that the miners might set off the dynamite with us still inside.Risk factor5/10
LowlightLowlight for Martin was running off the side of the road and getting stuck in the washout along the edge.
Lowlight for Jamie was not turning around and getting back there with his video camera to film Martin getting out.
Road tallyThis week saw the 8th mirror become a victim of the trip: 5 for Martin and 3 for Jamie.
Week 30 photo diary
The week, in event order
The mosaic follows the numbered sequence in date-and-time order. Select any image for its full-screen view and comment.