Lima was full of contrasts, from coastal desert to roads climbing up valleys into the Andes, where everything turns green as you gain height.
Over the week, we also spotted a few strange road accidents.
Goneriden
5 Apr 2002 – 11 Apr 2002
Peru
Cajamarca - Trujillo - Huaraz - Lima
The modern week-by-week edition
Lima was full of contrasts, from coastal desert to roads climbing up valleys into the Andes, where everything turns green as you gain height.
Over the week, we also spotted a few strange road accidents.
Goneriden
This week’s route
Approximate route using modern roads · OpenStreetMap contributors · route via OSRM
Week 23 in the full journey
The preserved 2002 maps provide full-trip context while the modern interactive journey map is developed.


Memorable moment
While in Quito, Riccardo Rocco recommended a mountain road to follow, to break the monotony of the Pan American Highway and to once again have dirt beneath us.
Once we located the turnoff and got past the security guarding the entrance, we were travelling into the Andes alongside a furious river, through over 30 pitch-black tunnels, with spectacular sheer mountains on either side. Winding our way through the narrow cutting, we came across an overturned bus that had been full of passengers, along with another bus that appeared to be full of sheep.
Just shy of our destination, Huaraz, we passed the mountain of Huascaran. Standing at 6,768m above sea level, Peru's highest mountain, capped with snow, it proved a spectacular finish to a great day's riding.
Original Week 23 accountPictures of the week
"You are correct Boxy, that is my left so that would make this my right!" - Some confusion Marty experienced without even having a drink.
"You can fly back to Madrid for $610US" - Boxy's travel agent delivering fantastic news after being quoted nearly double that elsewhere.
"It must be your buy" - Martin to Jamie upon meeting him at the airport.
After growing up in the country and practising conventional methods of livestock transport, it amused us to see the locals stuffing as many sheep as they could into the baggage compartments of a bus.
Jamie was obviously ecstatic to be back on the trip when he arrived in Lima at the end of week 23, and to get his bike back, which appeared to be as he left it.
However disappointed Boxy was to realise that his journey was at an end, the handover occurred with excellent timing.
Normally, when you go to the beach, you end up with your pants full of sand. If the same had happened on Lima's beach, the size and weight of the pebbles would have caused severe discomfort.Risk factor2/10
April 10th, flight 6651 from Madrid, landing at 5.35pm, were the details of Jamie's arrival into Lima. We got to the airport a little early to ensure we wouldn't miss him. After locating the arrival gate, we settled down to a couple of beers to ponder upcoming events.
We waited nearly 3 hours for Jamie to walk through customs, only to find via email that he had missed his connection in Madrid and wouldn't arrive for another 24 hours. The sharpening of our negotiating skills with cab drivers the only good to come of the afternoon.
It seems some mountain roads prove too hard for some truck drivers, as the pile of dead chooks on the side of the road indicated.
Week 23 photo diary
The mosaic follows the numbered sequence in date-and-time order. Select any image for its full-screen view and comment.