From the heights of Banos we headed west and down towards the coast. The motorbike appreciated the high-density air as we got closer to the coast.
Goneriden
22 Mar 2002 – 28 Mar 2002
Ecudaor
Banos - Guayaquil - Montanita
The modern week-by-week edition
From the heights of Banos we headed west and down towards the coast. The motorbike appreciated the high-density air as we got closer to the coast.
Goneriden
This week’s route
Approximate route using modern roads · OpenStreetMap contributors · route via OSRM
Week 21 in the full journey
The preserved 2002 maps provide full-trip context while the modern interactive journey map is developed.


Memorable moment
After our lengthy stay in Quito, we were convinced that our visit to Ecuador should include a coastal village and, presumably, the nation’s most highly acclaimed surfing beach, Montanita.
Perfect waves and an equally favoured beach, along with reports of lots of bikinis, was a good enough reason for us. Our arrival was planned in time for the Easter weekend, which would ensure a higher volume of tourists, therefore providing a heightened atmosphere.
Although our prediction of population proved to be correct, we were disappointed to learn that after heavy rain the streets turned to a muddy slosh, copious amounts of dead wood and mud had washed down onto the beach, accommodation prices jumped 200% and the mosquitoes were rife - not quite what we had expected.
Our stay was relieved by the company of friends we'd met in Quito, who had also succumbed to the intrigue of Montanita.
Original Week 21 accountPictures of the week
"No, we don't have two beds in the same room and we charge by the hour" - hotel owner in an interesting part of Guayaquil
"Babahoyo is that way" - policeman whose directions were a little off
This week it was our aim to climb the highest point in Ecuador (on the bikes, of course). Not to be stopped by private tracks and numerous gates, we were disappointed to find, level with the snowline, that our destination should be halted by simply no more navigable terrain.
After leaving Banos, we were given bad directions from the local law, who actually happened to be directing traffic. However, even though we rode miles out of our way, we ended up passing through the middle of the Andes and witnessed first hand the splendedness of the magnificent mountains.
We were informed that if you survive rafting a grade 6 rapid, then it would actually only be a grade 5 rapid.
After experiencing the grade 5 rapids at Banos for ourselves, we were convinced that rafting professionals were soft.Risk factor1/10
After the application of sun-smart products and the hiring of surfboards, we were upset with the appearance of Ecuador's best surf spot.
Totally psyched at the prospect of showing the locals that we not only ride bikes, we were faced with terrible surf, along with dreeloads of debris and mud washed down from the mountains in recent rains.
After foolishly deciding to headbutt Boxy at 65 MPH, a pretty water crane was left in a flurry of feathers, a crumpled mess on the side of the road.
Week 21 photo diary
The mosaic follows the numbered sequence in date-and-time order. Select any image for its full-screen view and comment.