This week we leave lovely Lake Atitlán, avoid Guatemala City, and head into Honduras, eventually ending up in the Bay Islands for a couple of days of cheap diving and refreshing beers.
Goneriden
1 Jan 2002 – 7 Feb 2002
Guatamala - Honduras
San Pedro (Lake Atitlan) - Antigua - Copan Ruins (Honduras) - La Ceiba - Utila
The modern week-by-week edition
This week we leave lovely Lake Atitlán, avoid Guatemala City, and head into Honduras, eventually ending up in the Bay Islands for a couple of days of cheap diving and refreshing beers.
Goneriden
This week’s route
Road sections use current OpenStreetMap roads · ferry and flight legs are direct guides
Week 14 in the full journey
The preserved 2002 maps provide full-trip context while the modern interactive journey map is developed.


Memorable moment
Lake Atitlán to Antigua
After some careful deliberation we decided to trust our map and complete a full lap of Lake Atitlán on our way to Antigua, which was situated approximately 100 km to the east of San Pedro. After about 60 km and 2 hours, we ended up back at our starting point and, through no fault of our own, low on fuel with nowhere to buy it.
Once back on the right track, it wasn't far before Boxy ran out of fuel, and in doing so selfishly used the whole spare gallon, only to continue 1 km down the road to find Martin in the same predicament. After laying Martin's bike over to one side, we found that the bike could make a lot more distance with the fuel trapped to one side. Finally, Martin made it to a fuel station only to find Boxy was not following. Retracing his steps, he found Boxy on the side of the road with a flat tyre, cursing Jamie for obviously administering the "slime" in his tyres incorrectly.
100 km and 6 hours later we arrived in Antigua.
Original Week 14 accountPictures of the week
"We have a safety suntan" – from two Swedish-Nicaraguans in response to our questions regarding their lack of riding gear.
BWRAF – (buckles, weight belts, regulators, air, final check). Cecil, our Caribbean dive boat skipper, remembers it differently – black willies really are fat.
"No, they can't have the room for that price" – mother of the boy Boxy was negotiating with as she slammed the door in Boxy's face.
Rudest Haircut: After both of us received new hair cuts, it was a day before Boxy saw his reflection in a shop window, realising how stupid he looked. It was on with a hat until finally correcting the procedure himself.
After carrying all our luggage onto Utila (boxes, jackets, tents, helmets, hammock, day packs), we met a German lad sympathetic to our predicament. He took off and returned five minutes later with a borrowed golf buggy to taxi us to our lodgings.
Having the arduous task of riding through Guatemala City, avoiding the dangerous end of town without the aid of a good map and with a lack of road signsRisk factor6/10
After nearly 14 weeks of not letting the bikes out of our sight, we were forced to leave them in La Ceiba while we journeyed to the island of Utila to engage in our advanced open water dive course.
After purchasing spare tyres in Mexico City in week 6, they were finally changed after a flat occurred, and after carrying them everywhere for approximately 8,500 km.
Week 14 photo diary
The mosaic follows the numbered sequence in date-and-time order. Select any image for its full-screen view and comment.